EV Charger Installation Guide for Charleston Homeowners

What to Know Before You Install a Home EV Charger

If you’re considering buying an electric vehicle, or you’ve already brought one home, congratulations. EV ownership is growing fast here in the Charleston area, and we’ve installed a lot of chargers for local homeowners.

What most dealerships don’t explain is this: You will likely need a dedicated circuit at home to charge properly. And the “fastest charging possible” is not always the best or most practical option.

Let’s break this down simply.

Level 1 vs. Level 2 Charging

Level 1 Charging (Standard Outlet)

Level 1 simply means plugging into a regular 120V outlet in your home.

Best for:

• Very short daily drives

• 10–20 miles per day

• Backup charging option
  

Pros:

• No electrical upgrades required

• Lowest installation cost
  

Cons:

• Very slow charging (adds only a few miles per hour)
  

If you’re just driving around Mount Pleasant or making short local trips, this might work. But most homeowners quickly realize they want something faster.

Level 2 Charging (240V Dedicated Circuit)

Level 2 charging uses 240 volts and requires a dedicated circuit installed by a licensed electrician.

Most Level 2 chargers range from 20 amps up to 60 amps, and the amperage determines how fast your vehicle charges.

Here’s what that means in practical terms:

Circuit Size	Typical Charging Speed	Who It’s Good For
20A	Slower Level 2	Light daily drivers
30A–40A	Moderate speed	Many homeowners
50A–60A	Fastest home charging	High-mileage or daily drivers

Do You Really Need the Fastest Charging?

A lot of customers tell us: “I want the fastest charging possible.”

But here’s what we walk them through:

Your Driving Habits

If you drive 20–30 miles per day, a smaller circuit will recharge your vehicle overnight without issue. You don’t need 60 amps just to drive to the grocery store and back.

Your Electrical Panel Capacity

Your home’s panel has limits.

If you jump straight to a 60A charger, we may need:

• A panel upgrade

• Load calculations

• Service upgrades

That adds cost and complexity. In many homes, a 30A–50A Level 2 charger is an efficient and cost-effective option.

Your Budget

Higher amperage =

• Larger breaker

• Larger wire

• Potential panel modifications

That means higher installation costs. Often, the “middle range” option gives you everything you need without overbuilding your system.

Pro Tip: Charge at Night

No matter what size charger you choose, we strongly recommend charging overnight.

Why?

✔ Lower Utility Rates

Many power companies (including Dominion Energy in South Carolina) offer lower rates during off-peak hours.

✔ Lower Home Electrical Load

At night:

• HVAC demand is lower

• Appliances aren’t running

• The house is mostly idle

This reduces stress on your electrical system.

Most modern EV chargers are smart chargers. You can set them from your phone to start charging at midnight and shut off in the early morning hours.

Set it once and forget it.

Our Recommendation

If you:

• Drive short to moderate distances

• Don’t need rapid daytime top-offs

We typically recommend a 20A–40A Level 2 setup.

If you:

• Drive long distances daily

• Want maximum charging speed

• Have sufficient panel capacity

Then we’ll recommend explore 50A–60A options and make sure your system can safely handle it.

Final Thoughts

Buying an EV is exciting. But before installing the biggest charger available, ask:

• How far do I actually drive each day?

• Can my panel handle it?

• Is it worth upgrading my system?

• Would a mid-range charger meet my needs?

The right answer is different for every home.

If you’re in the Charleston, Mount Pleasant, Daniel Island, or surrounding areas and want an honest evaluation, we’re happy to help you determine the safest and most practical setup.

Because the goal isn’t just fast charging. It’s safe, efficient, and smart charging.

—Andrew Gloudeman

Master Electrician

Gloudeman Electric

Why the Electrical Box Matters When Installing Light Fixtures

When homeowners shop for new light fixtures, most of the focus is on style. Size, finish, brightness, and how it will look in the space. What almost no one thinks about is what is actually holding that fixture up.

That is where the electrical box comes in, and it matters more than you might think.

Not All Fixture Boxes Are Created Equal

Every light fixture is supported by an electrical box hidden in your ceiling or wall. That box is responsible for holding the fixture’s weight safely over time.

Many decorative fixtures today are much heavier than people expect. Some weigh 40, 60, or even 80 to 90 pounds once all the decorative elements are included. If the fixture box is not rated for that weight, it becomes a safety issue.

There are several types of fixture boxes, and they are not always interchangeable.

Common Types of Electrical Boxes

Old Work "Cut-in" Box

Old work or cut-in boxes: These are often held in place by small plastic or metal “ears” that grip drywall. Many of these are only rated for about six pounds. They are never appropriate for heavy fixtures.

Pancake boxes: These shallow metal boxes are typically mounted directly to ceiling joists. Most are rated for up to 50 pounds. That sounds like a lot, but many modern chandeliers exceed that limit.

Pancake Box

Ceiling fan rated boxes: Ceiling fans require a different type of box entirely. Even if the fan itself is not especially heavy, the movement and vibration make standard boxes unsafe. Fan rated boxes are designed to handle both weight and motion.

Why Ceiling Fans Are Different

A ceiling fan is not just hanging there. It is constantly moving, shifting weight, and creating vibration. Because of that, ceiling fans should never be installed on standard pancake boxes or basic fixture boxes.

They require a fan rated box that is secured properly to framing and designed to handle those forces long term.

Ceiling fan box

Why We Prefer Metal Boxes

Whenever possible, metal boxes are the safest option. Plastic boxes can crack, degrade over time, or lose strength as they age. Metal boxes provide better durability, better weight support, and longer service life.

This is especially important for heavier fixtures or installations in older homes.

Why Electricians Sometimes Need to Open the Ceiling

Homeowners are sometimes surprised when an electrician says they need to look at the box to check it before hanging a fixture. This is not upselling. It is about safety.

You cannot always tell what type of box is installed just by looking at the existing fixture. Verifying the box rating ensures the fixture will be supported properly and reduces the risk of failure later.

The Question Every Homeowner Should Ask

When having a light fixture or ceiling fan installed, ask this simple question:

Is the electrical box rated for the weight and type of fixture I am installing?

A qualified electrician should be able to answer that clearly and recommend changes if needed.

Safety First

The last thing anyone wants is a fixture coming loose or falling. That can cause serious injury and property damage, and it is completely preventable with the right box and proper installation.

A beautiful fixture is only as good as what is holding it up. If you are planning to install a new light or ceiling fan and are not sure what is in your ceiling, it is worth having it checked before installation. A few extra minutes upfront can prevent major problems later!

Why Arc Fault Breakers and AFCI Protection Matters

If you live in a newer home, you may have heard your electrician mention arc fault breakers, also called AFCIs. You may also have heard frustration about them tripping or even suggestions to remove them. Before anyone takes that step, it’s important to understand what arc fault protection actually does and why it exists.

What Is an Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI)?

An AFCI, or Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter, is designed to protect your home from electrical fires caused by arcing in wiring. An arc happens when electricity jumps across a small gap in a damaged or compromised wire. That jump creates heat, and heat inside walls can ignite surrounding materials like wood or insulation.

Unlike a standard breaker, which only trips during overloads or short circuits, an AFCI monitors the electrical waveform itself. When arcing occurs, the smooth electrical signal becomes distorted. The AFCI detects that abnormal pattern and shuts the circuit down before heat builds to dangerous levels.

Real-World Example: TV Mounting

A common example is wall-mounted TVs. If a screw or lag bolt accidentally penetrates a wire inside the wall, the circuit may continue to function normally on a standard breaker. But that damaged wire can arc internally.

An AFCI recognizes the abnormal signal caused by that arc and trips the breaker, preventing potential fire inside the wall. That trip is not a nuisance. It’s the breaker doing its job.

Types of Arcing AFCIs Protect Against

AFCIs are designed to detect multiple types of arcs:

• Series arcs, where a damaged conductor causes arcing along a single wire

• Parallel arcs, where electricity jumps between hot and neutral or hot and ground, often caused by staples, nails, or screws
  

Modern AFCIs are built to detect both types, providing much broader protection than older systems.

Combo AFCI/GFCI Breakers in Newer Homes

In many newer homes, breakers provide both AFCI and GFCI protection in a single device. This protects against fire risk from arcing and shock risk from ground faults.

This isn’t just a cost increase or unnecessary complication. It’s based on real fire data and evolving electrical safety standards.

Should an AFCI Ever Be Removed?

In most cases, no. If an AFCI is tripping, it’s usually detecting a real issue.

There are limited situations where code does not require AFCI protection in a specific location. That would be the only valid reason to remove it. Otherwise, removing an AFCI eliminates a critical layer of fire protection.

One exception can be circuits with certain motor loads, which can mimic arcing behavior. In those cases, the correct solution is circuit isolation or proper load design, not removing protection entirely.

The Bottom Line

If an electrician suggests removing arc fault protection, ask why. A qualified electrician should be able to clearly explain whether it’s a code exception or a load issue. AFCIs are there to protect your home, your family, and everything inside your walls.